Hakone · 3 Days

Hakone: hot springs and a museum in the hills

Three days, one inn: baths in the morning, art in the afternoon, and nothing at all by Lake Ashi at dusk.

Ninety minutes from Tokyo, and the whole tempo drops. Hakone works as the opening or the closing of a longer journey — and equally well as the whole of one.

The skeleton

  • Day 1 — The Romancecar from Shinjuku; an onsen inn in the hills by afternoon; that evening, only the bath and dinner
  • Day 2 — The Open-Air Museum at opening time (the two quietest hours); the cedar approach to Hakone Shrine with its vermilion gate; Lake Ashi at dusk
  • Day 3 — A morning bath, then an unhurried lunch in Gora before the train back

House rules of this journey

One inn for three days — the luggage never moves. No ropeways or pirate ships or anything else with a queue, unless you ask for it yourself.

This is the skeleton of a journey that happened exactly once. Yours will begin from a blank page.

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